RMStator® RMS900-106872 - SPLYT Technology Stator + Voltage Regulator + High Output Flywheel

Why use the SPLYT Technology?
As featured by Dirt Trax Television, RMSTATOR SPLYT Technology provides a reliable solution to well-known charging system failures. Using a dual output stator with two completely separate stator windings, this system splits the power generated by the stator into two separate voltage regulators. These regulators then each operate with only half of the load of the original system, allowing them to maintain a lower temperature and increase reliability.

SERIES Voltage Regulation
This system uses a new type of voltage regulator called a SERIES regulator. Rather than shunting excess power to ground like a typical regulator, it protects the battery from high voltage by disconnecting the stator coils from the regulator and preventing current from passing on. This type of voltage regulation generates less heat because current from the stator is prevented from flowing through the regulator.

Ultimate reliability
With a stock charging system, voltage regulators are consistently operating within 5% of their maximum capacity, leading to heat and stress related failure. With the RMSTATOR SPLYT system, both SERIES voltage regulators are operating with 40% overhead for long life and stable output.
Better design
Contrary to the original OEM stator that uses one three phase stator winding, the SPLYT stator contains two completely separate three-phase coil windings. Each of these two windings then produces half of the power of the stock stator lowering the temperature in each individual coil.
More available power
If you are installing a lot of accessories and electronics on your vehicle, like extra lighting, stereos or a winch,
the SPLYT kit is available with an improved flywheel designed to increase power output from 650 Watts to 900 Watts.

Easy to install
All parts use a Plug-and-Play design, just like the original OEM ones, so no special tool or knowledge is needed to install this system.
Harnesses included
Relocation wiring harnesses allow to relocate the regulators anywhere on your vehicle to get better air flow and easier access.
This kit includes:
Dual output stator
Two SERIES voltage regulators
Improved high output flywheel
Two automotive grade relocation wiring harnesses with OEM-quality heavy-duty connectors
Flywheel puller
Gasket
Complete instructions for voltage regulator relocation
Solve your Polaris RZR & Sportsman charging system issues today, once and for all, with RMSTATOR!
IMPORTANT NOTICE: This kit includes two wiring harness according to Polaris recal # Z-16-01-C (OEM # 2206620, 2206367,2206473). We strongly suggest you to relocate both of your regulators to make sure they do not wear out prematurely due to mud, dust or rocks.
All item pictures are accurate, matching exactly what you will receive.

Download our complete installation instruction (PDF 15Mo)
Before installing your new stator
Check the AC output of the stator
Replace any burned or corroded connectors on stator and regulator rectifier
Check and repair any melted wiring
Use hi-temp dielectric grease on all connectors
Our stator may use a different wire color code than your original.
All the wires are installed in the correct order; please do not change any of the wiring configurations.
This stator is designed as a direct plug-in replacement and should be used as such.
When bolting stator in, always use locking compound.
If our stator includes a pickup coil, always make sure the air gap is correct upon installation; we suggest as close as possible no less than 0.010".
Before installing your new SERIES Voltage Regulator Rectifier
Check the AC output of the stator
Replace any burned or corroded connectors on stator and regulator rectifier
Check and repair any melted wiring
Use hi-temp dielectric grease on all connectors
Before attempting to install your new Flywheel
adjusting the air gap is necessary. Rotate the flywheel so the raised node is lined up with the pick up/pulser coil and adjust as close as possible but no less than 0.010".
Relocation Harness
Plug-and-Play, direct fit
Use hi-temp dielectric grease on all connectors.
Download our PDF installation instructions >
Removing a Powersport Vehicle's Flywheel / Rotor:
How it Works
Flywheel Pullers are very versatile engine service tools and are a must in every toolbox. Our large selection of best selling rotor and flywheel pullers fit just about any motorcycle or ATV. Flywheel pullers are very simple to use, having only an outer body to hold the flywheel and a screw to push on the crankshaft. Some are even simpler, having only a bolt to thread into the flywheel. A taper holds the flywheel or rotor and the crankshaft together. The flywheel is secured to the shaft by applying torque to the fixing bolt.
An Important Component to use
Many flywheel or rotor puller tools will include a small cap. This is a crankshaft thread protector, and should always be used if it is included with the puller. You slip this cap onto the end of the inner piece of the puller which presses against the tip of the crankshaft. This keeps the fine threads from being stripped or damaged while removing the flywheel or rotor.
Actions to Avoid
Most of the time, removing a flywheel or rotor is painless. But sometimes corrosion, over-torquing the fixing bolt or heat-cycling can give you a hard time removing the flywheel. We too often see mechanics use a larger breaker bar or air impact tools to ease the flywheel off. These two techniques will damage the flywheel, the flywheel puller or the crank. Avoid using them if you want to keep it cheap.
Tips to break a stuck flywheel loose:
Torque Wrench
How do you know if it's stuck? You simply have to set your torque wrench to 50 ft-lbs and try to ease the flywheel off. If the flywheel is not stuck, you should be able to remove it with even less torque than this. If it is stuck, don't use more torque or you might break your wrench.
Ball Peen Hammer
If 50 ft-lbs does not do the trick, go fetch something like a 12 or 16 oz ball peen hammer. Hit the end of the flywheel puller with a medium blow. Many times, the shock you create will successfully remove your flywheel. Be prepared to catch the flywheel since the shock of the hammer can make the flywheel jump off. Once again, getting into that situation will be pricey. And don't forget your safety glasses.
Propane Torch
The hammer is not a be-all, end-all solution. Sometimes, you will have to find something more powerful, and that's where the propane torch comes in. As a last resort solution, the heat should expand the flywheel but not the crank, since it is too massive to expand as fast. That way, the flywheel will become looser and will come off easier.
Important Security Tips: In order to not set fire to your garage, your vehicle or yourself, certain precautions are necessary prior to heating the flywheel:
Clean any oil or flammable liquids off the flywheel;
Make sure your work area is free of any flammable liquids and that you work in a well ventilated area;
Make sure to remove the gas tank, and set it aside at a safe distance.
Make sure the flame of your torch is focused, and heat only the center of the flywheel. This is due to the fact that some flywheels use adhesive or other fixing compounds to locate the magnets in the rim that can be damaged by concentrated heat. Here again, the wheel might fall off the crank, so be prepared to catch it. And remember that you just heated it, so make sure you can catch it without burning yourself.
With these tips and techniques, you are now equipped to handle any stuck flywheel without throwing your flywheel puller at it; unless you have a habit of working with machines that have been in a lake for months!
Warning:
Risk of electric shock. Disconnect the battery before servicing.
Ensure proper installation by a qualified technician to avoid malfunction.